“Magic Wood”english
WEATHER
out of order – will be replaced and online soon.
Information
The bouldering area is placed shortly before the village of Ausserferrera on a sealevel of 1250m on a step southeast forrest hang. It was found in 1999 from the developers whom cleaned the first lines. The wild romantic forrest reach because of the perfeft rock quality international populariry. Until today Magic Wood counts arround 500 problems up to 8c+ with potential for more.
Developer
Thomas Steinbrugger, Bernd Zangerl, Jack Müller and other locals.
How to get to the blocks
From Bodhi Camping over the bridge in just 5min. to the first Boulders. Please note that bouldering is just allowed in the marked zone. Everything over the upper bridge and below Bruno Block (Never Ending Story, Supernova…) is not in the boulderarea. Find below the link with the map of the community – in blue, the official bouldering area. Please hold on the borders and keep in the area.
Please just use the parking arround the campground. For your own security we recommend not to walk on the street to the upper bridge.
Rock/Character
Crimps, Slopers and Pinches out of premium gneiss you will find on the athletic boulders. Slaps, step roof or highballs need a lot of power and a strong will. The landing area is mostly rocky and blocked. As more crashpads as better. After intens rain some boulders dry really quickly…and the rest one by one. After 1-2 days the most is clean and dry.
Here the online Topo from sloper.nl to download:
or as a alternativ
Alpen en bloc 1 – from Panico
Swiss Bloc 1 – from Röker
Golden Rules and Tips„ Magic Wood“
Please pay attention to the following points! With this you can help to avoid problems and to preserve the naturalness and beauty of this valley – thank you!
- Wild camping is strictly prohibited! Als to stop overnight with your bus or camper outside the campground will be seen as it and reported at the police.
- Respect the nature! The waste buckets and toilets are available for you: Please spare the landscape and the wild animals of your emissions.
- Fires are allowed at the official fireplace only.
- Parking area at bodhi climbingcamping is for guests only. Visitors of Magic Wood please use parking area at the entrance of the bouldering area.
- Attention: The real climbing area “Magic Wood” is in a zone of rockslide and water level can rise strongly at any time!
- Keep in mind, no Bouldering outside the Zone Plan (see at camping notice board)
Thank you for your cooperation. We wish you a nice stay and accident free cranking days. For questions or in case of problems please contact the staff of bodhi climbing.
Overnight stay
Direclty at the gate to Magic Wood is the small Bodhi Camping situated, From here you reach the bouldering area in 5 min. Here climbers meet and change beta’s on the fireplace for the next day of cranking.
For those who need more luxury can find in Ausserferrera the Restaurant Edelweiss, whom offer overnight stays at the Hotel Generoso.
At viamalaferien.ch you have the choice of the choices. Hotel, Appartement oder sleeping in the straw. Everything is possible just not wild camping.
Approach by car
From Zürich follow the direction to Chur,Thusis, Andeer on the A13/E43.
Directly after a uphill tunnel at Andeer, take the exit to Rofla/Ferrera/Avers/Juf , after that hold left to Ausserferrera, Juf. After a few kilometers you will see an old ruin on the right hand side. 200meters further to the right the parking of bodhi camping. – P-Magic Wood
From Milano follow the road to Lugano,Bellinzona, San Bernandino, Splügen, Andeer on the A13/E43.Take the exit Andeer and then either change back and try to find the way according to the description above or take the old road to Bärenburg, Roflaschlucht, direction Ferrera/Avers Juf until you reach Bodhi Camping.
ViewBodhi Camping in a larger map
Approach by public transport
From Zürich via Chur, Thusis. After by bus to Andeer direction Ausserferrera./Juf. Just at the parking of the camping there is a bus stop calledG”Alte Schmelze”
From Milano via Lugano Bellinzona. After by bus ton San Bernadino, Splügen to the Roflaschlucht. From there you’ll have to walk along the street for approximately 20min or wait for the next bus to Ausserferrea/Juf.
www.sbb.ch – timetable
Shopping
Andeer - Volg, small supermarket. Bakery for the daily fresh bred.B
Thusis – Coop, Denner, Aldi
Chur – The oldest City of Switherland invite you to walk trough the old city and offer everything from supermarkets, homeworkers -, camping – and climbingshops.
NEWS
03.12.2011 – Where is the snow?
Next Monday, according to the forecast the snow will hit again…its gonna be winter soon. The season never been longer and the November never the warm before. The campground is ready for winter. The toilets have been shut down, and everything stored. If you still stay at Bodhi Camping, please restore the stuff you used. other whiles it will be covered in snow until next spring.
Bodhi Climbing finally arrived at Val Ferrera. The feeling to reach the blogs in three minutes from the housedoor is amazing. Now where in the final push for the restaurant and soon there will be an opening to celebrate.
Further information following as soon as possible.
Have a good start in the winter.
10.10.2011 – The 2nd Snow and the Edelweiss
Yesterday morning we found at least 30cm of new snow on Bodhi Camping. It collapsed with the upcoming heath and we sure it will be gone fast…up to some final perfect conditions before winter hit fully.
As soon as the snow cover the valley, we will move our residency to Ausserferrera to enjoy the valley daily.
Thomas and Science will manage the Restaurant Edelweiss, Bagpackers Generoso and Bodhi Camping from the upcoming season on. Out of this reason we will not be at the camp very often, but you always welcome to come and say hello at the Edelweiss. Further information will follow soon.
Enjoy the coming days.
30.08. 2011 – 2. Clean Up Day and the end of holidays
Rain cant stop us, but it did delay us. Heavy rain and a slightly snow stopped the crowd in thirst for action to clean Magic Wood.
As if by magic, the rain stopped at lunch and 50 volunteers comb trough the forest. At the same time on Bodhi Camping, a cute 25kg pic got slowly roasted on the fire. Our Croatian Crew under the instruction of Petar Vukic worked hard for 6hrs. to get the pic well done.
Within a few hours the magic came back to the forrest. Quite a number of trashbags find there way back to the camp and once more we were surprised by the ammount. Shortly after 7pm Valentin from mountain wilderness switzerland informed us about natur protection and recycling.
After that intersting speech and the pricegiving, we finally could spit the porc on the fork and the party continued…
A big thanks to the following:
- all volunteers
- Mischa the hard working dwarf
- climax,ClimbOn,bergsturm.ch,MadRock,Prana,Metolius,Arcteryx und Bodhi Climbing for all the prices
- Valentin from mountain wilderness switzerland for his speech and efforts
- Petar Vukic & son Igor and his friend for the pigling show and the delecacy for dinner
- Andrea & Science for the fantastic salades
- bergsturm.ch for the flyer
After this great experience we really looking forward to organise the 3. Clean Up Day in 2012. We hope to inspire part of the climbing scene and a better understanding in all climbing areas worldwide. Keep the clean and care about the environment.
We see the event as a season ending. The holiday time is over and its getting peaceful and colder in the valley. After this hectical time we are looking forward to some relaxing days and probably more contact with rock again.
20.07.2011 – 2. Magic Wood Clean Up Day
Even its not as dirty at Magic Wood, a bit of cleaning doesnt harm the Magic of the forrest. Thats why Bodhi Climbing is organising the 2. Magic Wood Clean Up Day at Magic Wood. Lets collect trash and enjoy bouldering together and after there is pigling and salat to enjoy and price giving for all participants.
On the 27 of August 2011 from 08:30 on we will welcome everybody with Coffee on Bodhi Camping for registration. To cover the whole bouldering area we will divide participants into sectors.Until 7 pm you can bring back the trash to Bodhi Camping. Everybody who brings back a fair amount of trash can join the pigling with salad and the price giving.
Already a big Thanks in advance to the sponsors of the prices:climax,ClimbOn,bergsturm.ch,MadRock,Prana,Metolius,Arcteryx und Bodhi Climbing
Mountain Wilderness for the time and engagement,bergsturm.ch for the spontaneous action with the flyers, the 3 Croatians for the pigling action and the cooks of the salads (we still look for voluntaries)
Cu soon in the beautiful valley of Ferrera which can shine in a new brighness with your help.
22.06.2011 – Update from the Woods
Time is flying by and high season is nearly here…with Mischa back in business. Welcome back hombre and thanks in advance for your commitment and assistance.
Since a few weeks the hiking path trough the bouldering area is developed. More information about the whole path you will found on http://www.aast.ch/home.html. We give it a good judgement. One exception is the S to XL edge before the beacht block, whom got a new sitstart to all four problems. A peaceful path trough the area. As the time and power effort is the same as you use the street, please dont walk from the camping over the street to the uper areas. It would be a shame to start and end the boulderday on the front of a bus.
Our visitors should park the cars using a minimum of space, that there is some for everybody. If the camp is overcrowded, please park your car at the entry to the camp and come to the shop to ask for the best solution.
Keep it nice and tidy, that the next person finds a clean place to use (fontain, shelter, toilets…)
Have a good and accident free bouldering season 2011.
Thanks for your visit and cooperation.
07. 05.2011- “Better then chocolate”
On the 20 of Mai we will show “Better than chocolate” as a Swiss premiere open air at Bodhi Camping
www.betterthanchocolate-movie.com
“Better than Chocolate”is a movie from Haroun Souirji, a belgium, about Bouldering in Switzerland. He had climbers like Fred Nicole, Paul Robinson, Michele Caminati, Chris Web Parsons, Anthony Gullsten, Robert Leistner, Jule Winter and loads more, whom trying the best Boulderproblems in Switzerland. But it’s not just about hard climbing, also about the fun together on the rock or travelling.
Start is at ca. 08:30, after dark. The entrace is free. For the night at the campground the usual CHF 5.- are payable at the shop.
27.04.2011 – Recycling
Do you know Recycling?
Wikipedia: Recycling is processing used materials (waste) into new products to prevent waste of potentially useful materials, reduce the consumption of fresh raw materials, reduce energy usage, reduce air pollution (from incineration) and water pollution (from landfilling) by reducing the need for “conventional” waste disposal, and lower greenhouse gas emissions as compared to virgin production.Recycling is a key component of modern waste reduction and is the third component of the “Reduce”, Reuse, Recycle” waster hierarchy.
Recyclable materials include many kinds of glass, paper, metal, plastic, textiles and electronics. Although similar in effect, the composting or other reuse of biodegradable waste – such as food or garden waste – is not typically considered recycling. Materials to be recycled are either brought to a collection center or picked up from the curbside, then sorted, cleaned, and reprocessed into new materials bound for manufacturing.
At Bodhi Camping we always try to recycle glass, cans, carton and plastic bottles. new there is even an organic trash collection at the upper right corner of the parking. If you see a bag with cans, why you have to litter your plastic bottle in there? The same for the plastic bottle bag: no milk or other plastic bags, neither cans or glas…. And the trash bin – mostly full of the above mentioned materials anyway.
Thanks for you cooperation.
24.04.2011 – Eastern holidays
Eastern holidays are nearly pass already. First time in season the campground was full and the bouldering area lifefull again. We see that this summer gonna be a good one… Good weather, excellent climbing and better people compared to the past 2 years. Since the beginning 0f 2011 there is less of a mess, more nice and friendly people and less wankers. We never had to answer the stupid question: ” why i have to pay” or arguing over some stupid points. Some friendly guest even cleaned up a fountain and the shelter area. BigUp and thanks a lot.
Keep up the good vibrations and remember: “what goes around, comes around!”
Happy Bouldering at Magic Wood.
20.04.2011 – absolute fire prohibition
Because of the large dange of corridor and forest fires, the Forest Departement issued an abolute fire prohibition in all of Graubünden.
16.04.2011 – Bodhi Camping
Bodhi Camping opened. 1 week ago officially. As end of march sping hit the valley, we start this season earlier. Based on the weak Euro we had to raise the campfee today to EUR 4.-. The price in Swiss francs remains at CHRF 5.- The toilets where moved out of the shelter to use it as one for you on rainy days. Please keep it tidy, that there is space for everybody. The slackline is new in the forrest on the way to the river.
Furthermore there is a general prohibition on fire in the canton of graubünden at the moment. After consulation with the communtity it is ok to use the official fireplace at the campground.
29.03.2011 – Springfever
Spring is hiting switzerland. Also in Val Ferrer the snow is melting and green is dominating. In the bouldering area the ground is either icy or extremly wet…but also dry area where found. Dry boulders too and all that at 9 degress celcius…and the first visitors are here.
22.09.2010 – New bridge at the entrance of Magic Wood
Since a few days there is a new wooden bridge at the entrance of Magic Wood, which is wide enough to walk trough with a Mundo. Take care to it and dont stop for destructiv diversion. This energy can be used better for bouldering.
New Bridge at Magic Wood, photo: Urs Kohli
14.08.2010 – 1. Magic Wood Clean Up Day 2010
First time in Europe ever, Bodhi Climbing invited for the 1. Magic Wood Clean Up Day. The idea we got from Thailand, where we were actively at the ”Anual Crazy Horse Clean Up Day” organised by Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures www.thailandclimbing.com
50 volunteers find together even the forecast was more then worse to clean up the Magic Wood Bouldering Area
After Coffe and Croisants the volunteers walked trough the magical forrest to clean up all the trash and the mangesia from boulders. One small group looked after the area arround the campground and cleaned up all the toiletpaper and old sins from the communtiy. On this way the climbing szene could give something back to the bouldering area what we receive day by day from it. The „Clean Up Day“ brought the whole „Magic Wood Community“ closer together; friends, locals and climbers pulled on the same rope and celebrated in harmony with the nature this special event. Together we cleaned up and pulled on some boulders until late afternoon the first rain came.
Trash at the end of the day, photo: Patrick Lenniger
At 7pm the whole trash was presented at the camp. Everbody was amazed by the ammount and happy that Magic Wood got more space to breath again. Thanks to friends from www.kletterszene.com to arrange T-Shirts from (Marmot, Arc` Teryx, Salewa, Edelrid, Primus) for all participants.
The team of Bodhi Climbing would like to thanks to all volunteers, Sponsors and the community. Without your heroical help for the boulder community the magic would have been gone a long time ago.
Pictures of this action you can find in the gallery of Bodhi Camping . photos: Patrick Lenniger
12.08.2010 - Detail Program – 1. Magic Wood Clean Up Day 2010
01.06.2010 – Magic Wood Clean Up Day 14.08.2010
9:00 – 10:30 Registration & Coffee
10:30 – 20:00 Clean Up & Bouldering
20:00 – 23:00 Socialising on the campfire
At registration & coffee we would like to devide all volunteers in 4 groups, which take care independently to an allocated area. There will be enough time for bouldering too.
On the end of the day we collect the whole trash at the campground to see the dimension of our action.
Bodhi Climbing is offering a free night from the Saturday 14.08 to Sunday 15.08 & Coffee to all volunteers whom register for the event until Saturday 14.08, 10:30 am.
The event will be take place at every weather conditions.
Registration is available from now on under onsight@bodhi.ch.
We hope for numerous assistance and a beautiful boulder day with friends.
14.05.2010 – Construction guardrail & parking
The Parking at the campground is newly fenced in with guardrails. There 2 gateways to the parking. As a 2. step the parking along the street will be widened. If we have a full house, please use the parking on the other site of the street. Sorry the inconvenience and thanks for your understanding.